Right on schedule, there’s a usual discourse that spreads through social media and industry circles as New York Fashion Week rears its head. The conversations are largely based on the standing question, “Is NYFW dead?” One could argue back and forth surrounding the current direction of the fashion capital, but the looks below were enough to convince me that this fashion week is alive and exceedingly well. (After all, Beyoncé made an appearance.) Established names like Thom Browne and Marc Jacobs took you into worlds that surpassed imaginable levels of stylistic storytelling—they conveyed feelings within the fabrics. Tory Burch and Altuzarra celebrated anniversaries all while continuing to innovate after both having a monumental season in September. (The question filling our group chats and coffee breaks was “Will they be able to top the last?”)
Proenza Schouler and Sandy Liang, arguably the quintessential “cool girl” labels of the week (with noticeably different aesthetics) offered more reasons to take notes from New York. Schouler taught lessons in inventive layering, while Liang took a mature step up from the usual bows and Mary Janes with additions of tweed suit sets and cashmere sweaters. You can always count on emerging talent to give you something to believe in, and this season all eyes were on Zankov and Diotima for their attention to detail with knitwear and crochet, respectively.
As for the trends to know, similarities amongst the collections ranged from corporate-coded attire to dramatic furry coats that will only fuel the fire of the controversial “Mob Wife” aesthetic. Keep scrolling to see the themes and soon-to-be highly coveted items of the season that prove that no, New York Fashion Week is not dead.
The Trends
Many of the items most associated with corporate settings—suit sets, briefcase bags, and tailored blazers were spotted on the runways, a continuation of what we’ve seen at Prada and Saint Laurent last season.
You may have gotten tired of seeing “Mob Wife” on your timeline, but “the bigger, the better” was the theme for the outerwear designed by Gabriela Hearst, Khaite, and LaQuan Smith.
Pencil skirts are included in the corporate-inspired trend, but the variety offered made the item deserve it’s own call out. No longer are pencil skirts the stuffy or boring wardrobe piece reserved for the office, as proven by Tory Burch’s turquoise leather option or Brandon Maxwell’s sporty pick.
Fashion people are usually drawn to either silver or gold, but this season has the latter on top.