The Supreme x Margiela Collection Exploded the Aftermarket

What do you get when an avant-garde fashion darling joins forces with a streetwear juggernaut? The Supreme x MM6 Maison Margiela collection, an internet-shattering, world-colliding partnership between the French maison’s sub-label and the scrappy skate brand turned Harvard Business School case study.

Over the last decade, Supreme’s flirtations with the luxury fashion complex have become ever more serious—and increasingly cosmopolitan. In 2017, the house that James Jebbia built dropped a landmark collaboration with Louis Vuitton; more recently, it’s linked with the plaid-happy Brits at Burberry, the Italian knitwear gurus at Missoni, and Yohji Yamamoto, Japan’s reigning master of the tailoring dark arts. (To say nothing of its various projects with Nike and its ongoing relationship with VF Corporation stablemate The North Face.)

Which makes sense. As Supreme grows up, the brand has been quick to complicate its more conventional offerings—briskly-selling logo tees, gloriously baggy sweats—with clothing designed to appeal to the older members of its fanbase. The Supreme x MM6 Maison Margiela collection feels consistent with that pivot; it applies the best of the latter’s tongue-in-cheek tweaks to the former’s reliably popular button-ups, chinos, and once-a-season suiting. Sure, Supreme’s a bit of a corporate girlie now—but it hasn’t forgotten its hardscrabble roots.

With MM6 in the mix, the conventional offerings look even freakier. There’s a shaggy topcoat made with swatches of mismatched faux fur, double-knee painter pants with a shiny metallic finish, and, of course, a brand new box-logo tee screen printed with the outline of another tee, a classic Margielaism that pays tribute to the brand’s seminal spring 1996 collection.

As per usual, the collaboration went live on Supreme website’s at 11 a.m. sharp—and as per usual, the whole lot sold out within minutes. Kicking yourself for sleeping through that alarm? Don’t despair yet: the entirety of the collection has already materialized, hazy and mirage-like, on StockX, where you can buy it for an only slightly extortionary markup. If you snoozed, you don’t always lose.