A Go to to Ice, Isolation & Unimaginable Wildlife
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South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
The place there was grass, now there was ice.
We had formally reached South Georgia!
Although we had traveled largely east throughout our 950-mile journey from the Falkland Islands to South Georgia, the temperature was cooler, the mountains had been taller, and the horizon was dotted with clouds, snow, and glaciers.
Despite the fact that South Georgia is barely barely additional south than South America and the Falkland Islands, the 103-mile vary that makes up South Georgia Island is seen because the final affordable outpost earlier than reaching the Antarctic wilderness.
In right this moment’s put up, we’re sharing a few of South Georgia’s fascinating historical past and a have a look at the wildlife and touchdown websites you’ll be able to expertise on the island!
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South Georgia Island
South Georgia Island’s earliest recorded historical past suggests precisely how harsh this distant island will be.
A full 81 years elapsed between the island’s first recorded sighting by British service provider Antoine de la Roché in 1675 and its second by the Spanish vessel Léon in 1756.
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The South Sandwich Islands
19 years later, in 1775, famed British explorer Captain James Cook dinner would file South Georgia’s first touchdown in Possession Bay.
Pondering he had lastly discovered the long-rumored “southern continent” (referring to Antarctica), Captain Cook dinner was quickly upset when he rounded South Georgia Island’s southern cape and was as soon as once more dealing with West.
Primarily, he had merely discovered a modest island – right this moment the Sandwich Islands.
To honor (dishonor?) this doubtful journey, Captain Cook dinner named this bend Cape Disappointment.
Captain Cook dinner would get well his disappointment and instantly declare South Georgia as a sovereign topic of England and King George III (for whom the island is called).
This political designation would stay remarkably secure and continues to at the present time.
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Visiting South Georgia Island
At the moment, South Georgia Island is a well-liked breeding floor for various marine mammal and seabird species because of the nutrient-rich waters that encompass the island.
These waters are ample with meals for South Georgia’s supported species.
Its distinctive location means there are a confluence of ocean currents from the Atlantic and Southern oceans that deposit wealthy vitamins in South Georgia’s waters.
Whereas South Georgia’s current historical past is highlighted by the immense quantity of wildlife that decision the island residence, it’s maybe one man – and never the animals – that cultivated South Georgia’s most unbelievable story.
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Sir Ernest Shackleton
On the eve of our touchdown in South Georgia, we realized in regards to the well-known exploits of a few of the early Antarctic pioneers.
Maybe essentially the most memorable and touching was that of Sir Ernest Shackleton and his ill-fated expedition, The Endurance.
Sir Ernest Shackleton was an Irish-born British explorer who spent most of his profession fixated on the Antarctic.
After seeing his unique aim – discovering the South Pole – reached first by two different explorers, Shackleton created a brand new aim: make the primary land-based crossing of the Antarctic continent.
Shackleton was maybe not a natural-born marketer… but he was merely legendary in his management capabilities.
Regardless of his work discover that famously warned “Low wages. Bitter chilly. Secure return uncertain.”, over 5,000 males utilized for a place on Shackleton’s crew.
Finally, simply 28 males had been chosen to sail on the Endurance when she reached South Georgia Island in November 1914.
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The Endurance
Shortly after setting sail from South Georgia in December 1914, the Endurance was trapped by unseasonably thick ice.
Keen to attend till thawing ice set the ship free, Shackleton and his crew had been dismayed when the melting ice floes first splintered after which destroyed the Endurance.
With little greater than the ship’s three lifeboats, the crew set sail north.
Realizing his goals of a trans-Antarctic crossing had been crushed together with the Endurance, Shackleton set his most essential aim but – making certain his whole crew survived.
Upon reaching Elephant Island, an uninhabited outpost of the South Shetland Islands, Shackleton confronted his ordeal’s most vital query: head in opposition to present north to the nearer Falkland Islands, or head with the present and set sail – in a 23-foot lifeboat – for South Georgia Island, some 800 miles away?
Shackleton selected the latter.
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Alongside together with his 5 finest males, Shackleton set course for South Georgia.
He absolutely realized that ought to he fail to achieve the island, Shackleton was condemning the 22 males he left behind to sure loss of life.
With restricted water and one biscuit per day for meals – which, in line with one sailor’s diary, the seamen “checked out for breakfast, sucked for lunch, and ate for dinner”.
Lastly, the meager lifeboat James Caird reached South Georgia after 16 grueling days at sea.
Unluckily, Shackleton’s saga wasn’t completed.
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Shackleton’s Journey Throughout South Georgia
Having landed on the southern coast of South Georgia Island, Shackleton wanted to achieve civilization on South Georgia’s northern coast to rescue himself and his remaining crew on Elephant Island.
With no different selection, Shackleton set off with Frank Worsley and Tom Crean to traverse South Georgia by land.
The punishing passage, apart from having by no means been charted, was riddled with peaks, crevasses, and unforgiving winds.
Undeterred, Shackleton and his males made the passage – numbering over 30 miles – in simply 36 hours.
The following day, a whaling ship rescued the three males Shackleton left behind on South Georgia’s southern coast.
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And, 3 months later (resulting from poor climate situations), Shackleton, Worsley, and Crean boarded the Chilean navy vessel Yelcho and set course for the South Shetland Islands.
As soon as Elephant Island was in sight, Shackleton eagerly stood upright, counting the figures he might see on shore. After re-checking his rely, he turned to Crean and informed him the nice information.
Each final member of the Endurance had survived.
His fellow crew mates had been standing and cheering not solely their rescue, but additionally the indomitable spirit and can of their chief. Shackleton had achieved a very powerful aim he set.
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Apart from his daring bravery, what struck me most about Sir Ernest Shackleton was his obsession with uplifting the human spirit in determined instances.
Understanding the threats that starvation, thirst, and tedium offered his males, Shackleton remained fearlessly progressive in retaining his crew entertained.
Whether or not it was easy video games like soccer or extra outrageous maneuvers like shaving everybody’s head or having officers ballroom dance for the crew, Shackleton knew precisely which software was essential to craft a crew whose spirit and optimism continued.
Having realized his story aboard the Sea Spirit, C and I had been thrilled to study we might go to Shackleton’s closing resting place throughout our first South Georgia Island touchdown…
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Earlier than You Go:
We extremely advocate watching this Shackleton documentary. It’s not too lengthy, gripping to listen to and is narrated by Kevin Spacey!
Or, when you choose books, Alfred Lansing wrote this finest vendor of Shackleton’s unbelievable voyage. It’s free with an Amazon Audible trial!
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South Georgia Island Cruise
When you love not solely wildlife, however a little bit of historical past, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands are the place to go to.
As one of many first gateways to Antarctica, South Georgia Island was the middle of the world’s southern ocean whaling business from 1904 to 1966.
At this time, you’ll be able to go to not solely the deserted stays of those whaling stations, but additionally stunning fjords and stark glaciers which ample penguins and seals have claimed as their very own. On our cruise with Poseidon Expeditions, we had the chance to go to 8 touchdown websites.
Nearly all of those are positioned on South Georgia’s northeastern coast, because the excessive mountains dotting South Georgia defend the north coast from the robust prevailing westerly waves.
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Listed below are the locations we visited on our South Georgia cruise:
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New York. London. Hong Kong.
These are the names that sometimes recur after I consider cities with extremely affluent companies.
One which doesn’t?
Grytviken, South Georgia Island.
Norwegians and linguists might have already got an inkling as to what introduced Grytviken – or “Cauldron Cove” in Norwegian – over $100 million yearly in right this moment’s {dollars}.
Whaling
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Sure, earlier than there was drilling for petroleum oil, there was whaling for blubber oil.
Melted in big vats (or cauldrons), whale oil was used to supply every little thing from gasoline lamp warmth to margarine.
Whole communities had been developed to seize, pores and skin, and flense whales.
Grytviken, established in 1904 by Norwegian settlers, was the primary such group on South Georgia Island.
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Whaling on Grytviken
Whaling was the start, center, and finish of Grytviken’s story.
So, when a wave of political, cultural, and financial elements crashed whaling’s viability within the mid-Twentieth century, Grytviken turned out of date and was abruptly deserted in 1966.
At this time, a number of shipwrecks and the rust-covered whale processing plant make Grytviken one thing of a mysterious industrial ghost city – with a number of dozen king penguins, fur seals, and elephant seals added for good measure.
After our Zodiacs landed on the jap facet of Grytviken, we needed to navigate two fur seals and a large elephant seal to achieve the Grytviken cemetery.
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Shackleton’s Grave
Nicely-preserved, the cemetery lies roughly 200 toes up the mountainside and homes the ultimate resting locations of Sir Ernest Shackleton and 62 others.
Most had been Norwegians intimately related to Grytviken’s whaling days.
After leaving the cemetery and strolling only a few minutes alongside the bay, we discovered ourselves within the erstwhile Grytviken metropolis middle.
Full of rusted-over barrels, cranes, and a few badly bruised shipwrecks, Grytviken serves as an eerie reminder that people, too, face a bitter circle of life.
Revenue from an business that fails to innovate, and you could be left behind as effectively.
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South Georgia Museum
Just some steps additional lay the South Georgia Museum, our final cease in Grytviken.
Full of fascinating memorabilia from Grytviken’s whaling historical past together with a full-size reproduction of the James Caird, Shackleton’s well-known lifeboat, the museum brings some present-day context to a traditionally wealthy metropolis.
The museum additionally homes an lovable reward store that features home made knit penguin booties, beautiful Penguin ceramics, and even bottles of “Shackleton” single malt Scotch whisky!
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Jason Harbor
Northern Coast of South Georgia, Cumberland West Bay
After leaving Grytviken, the main target of our landings pivoted towards the immense quantity of wildlife that South Georgia Island helps.
Our subsequent touchdown at Jason Harbor, simply northwest of Grytviken, didn’t disappointment.
As quickly as our Zodiacs reached shore, we had been met by lots of of elephant and fur seals mendacity on the seaside.
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Fur Seals
Whereas fur seals are the smaller of the 2 species, they’re recognized to be aggressive.
Don’t be fooled by their huge, heart-melting eyes – the seaside is theirs, and, when you get too shut, they may let !
Then again, the southern elephant seals are extra approachable, seeming fairly content material to permit people fairly shut – as lengthy their napping stays uninterrupted!
Measuring as much as 19 toes lengthy and 9,000 kilos heavy (that’s over 4 tons, people), the southern elephant seals are the world’s largest pinnipeds. Sadly, males – who apparently lead very hectic waking lives – solely stay 6-10 years on common.
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Elephant Seals
When elephant seals return to South Georgia’s seashores for mating season, every seaside has a “seaside grasp” who maintains a harem of mates routinely numbering 40 or extra.
To determine the dominance essential to earn the seaside grasp title, essentially the most bold males will usually have interaction in extended, vicious combating.
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Consequently, you’ll virtually actually see – as we did – seals with our bodies scarred, bloodied, and mangled from their jousting efforts.
After making our method by means of the seaside, we navigated a maze of tussock grass and small streams that led to a small, snow-encrusted hill.
From the hilltop, we seen a glistening lagoon, the lots of of seals, and the Sea Spirit sitting calmly within the distance.
Because the daylight waned we counted our fortunate stars, realizing that our unbelievable South Georgia Island journey had solely begun.
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Saint Andrew’s Bay
North Coast of South Georgia
When 6,000 elephant and fur seals are an afterthought, you’re spoiled with wildlife to look at.
Our second day of South Georgia landings started in St. Andrew’s Bay, positioned barely southeast of Grytviken and Jason Harbor.
Poseidon Expeditions recommends retaining a 5 meter distance from all wildlife.
This not solely advantages the wildlife, which stays comparatively uninterrupted, but additionally the observer, who each stays protected and observes the wildlife as naturally as doable.
Upon touchdown at St. Andrew’s Bay, our Expedition group sheepishly informed us that, though that they had marked a route that will maximize security, sustaining the 5-meter distance is likely to be tough!
The simple stroll alongside the bay was full of intermittent stops to look at the hundreds of elephant seals, fur seals, and King penguins mendacity simply steps away!
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King Penguins
Whereas the penguins largely caught to their lovable waddling, the seals demonstrated a spread of fascinating – and graphic – behaviors together with jousting, nursing, and – you guessed it – mating!
After the hilly topography of Jason Harbor, the largely flat stroll alongside Saint Andrew’s Bay was welcome.
Plus, the one actual hill alongside the whole stroll was fully value summiting.
Mendacity simply over a small hill was an estimated rookery of 300,000 to 400,000 king penguins – the most important king penguin colony on planet Earth.
Although we needed to stay at a respectful distance given the variety of new child penguin chicks, it was breathtaking – even from afar – to look at so many king penguins of their pure habitat!
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Gold Harbor
East Finish of South Georgia
Not all landings go in line with plan.
When surveying the distant, harsh, and unpredictable situations of the Antarctic, aborted landings ought to sometimes be anticipated.
What was sudden, nevertheless, was aborting our touchdown at Gold Harbor on a sunny, calm, and downright balmy Monday afternoon.
The explanation?
The Gold Harbor seaside housed a veritable blockade of fur and elephant seals.
Neglect the 5-meter rule.
We couldn’t have blazed a path greater than 5 inches from the closest seal!
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Our preliminary disappointment rapidly gave option to pleasure, as our resourceful Expedition Group thought rapidly on their toes and organized a Gold Harbor photograph tour by Zodiac boat.
The outcome?
Merely superb.
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Zodiac Cruising
C and I bought significantly fortunate as Ryan, the Expedition Group Chief of the Sea Spirit, was our Zodiac information.
His approachable persona, intensive wildlife information, and expertise mixed for a brilliant tour.
We started by slowly combing the seaside, getting close-up appears to be like on the elephant and fur seals who had been both resting, tossing rocks on their again to stay cool, or combating for title of seaside grasp.
Interspersed among the many big seals had been tiny teams of Gentoo penguins.
This smaller penguin species appeared extra lovable than regular, significantly set in opposition to a backdrop of the large, loafing seals.
After ending our seaside crawl, we got here across the exterior and navigated a jagged array of rocks, coves, and inlets.
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South Georgia Birdlife & Leopard Seals
Right here, we noticed a few of the unbelievable hen life for which South Georgia is understood – together with petrels, skuas, falcons, albatrosses, finches, ovenbirds, pipits, and terns.
The place we had been significantly fortunate, although, was proper at journey’s finish.
A number of leopard seals – which, as extra water-bound than their elephant and fur cousins, are rarer sights – turned curious and poked their heads above the water.
Understanding that we might’ve by no means seen the leopard seals had we really landed, we couldn’t consider our luck. Even after we appeared unfortunate, issues saved breaking proper for us on this unbelievable expedition!
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Prion Island
Off North Coast of South Georgia, Bay of Isles
Talking of luck, we knew the climate had already spoiled us loads.
By means of our first 9 days at sea, the one clouds we noticed had been shiny white and set in opposition to crystal blue skies.
The solar was shining, the seas had been regular, and the climate was heat.
In different phrases, the climate was extremely uncommon – even for the notoriously unpredictable Antarctic.
So, when C and I awoke to gray skies and regular rainfall on the final Tuesday in October, we might solely supply wry smiles.
We knew we’d already loved loads of luck, and we had been excited to take advantage of dealing with the weather.
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A Specifically Protected Space
It was with plenty of luck and planning from Poseidon Expeditions that we had been capable of go to Prion Island!
South Georgia has designated the 1.5 mile island as a Specifically Protected Space, resulting from its rat free standing and breeding albatrosses.
Entry is permitted solely by designated allow and solely expedition ships with a Class 1 allow from IAATO are allowed to use for the go to software.
Additional complicating issues, solely 2 ships are allowed to go to per day and solely 50 folks can come ashore at any time.
What’s extra, the island is totally closed off to guests from November Twentieth to January seventh annually (basically 90% of the Antarctic season) to be able to let the native wildlife discover companions and breed with out human disturbance.
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The Boardwalk
The very first thing I observed about Prion Island as our Zodiac navigated the seaside facet swells was the distinctive topography.
Nearly like one thing from a online game or fantasy novel, Prion Island is a collection of flat, largely spherical meadows scattered at totally different elevations.
Fortuitously, a community of staircases and board walks crisscrossed the paths, making it a lot simpler to see the quantity of wildlife that decision Prion Island residence.
And talking of wildlife, boy, was there loads to see!
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Like many South Georgia Island touchdown websites, the Prion Island seaside was filled with elephant and fur seals.
We quickly found that seals, like people, are significantly irritable in the course of the rain.
Concerning Antarctic wildlife, we had already realized that seals, who simply change into aggressive, command the 5-meter rule’s strictest adherence.
Nonetheless, our trusty Expedition Group – who’ve a few years’ expertise finding out and interacting with wildlife – fearlessly shepherded us to Prion Island’s peak.
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The Wandering Albatross
This touchdown particularly, was for the birders.
Prion Island is likely one of the few nesting colonies for Wandering Albatross. These regal sea birds have the excellence of the most important wingspan on this planet – over 10 toes!
Examine that to the South Georgia Island Pipit, whose wingspan is simply 9 inches.
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Wandering Albatross birds sometimes soar on the open ocean for hours at a time, driving the updrafts from boat swells.
Sadly, the species survival is at risk from lengthy line fishing gear.
Whereas the Wandering Albatrosses are Prion’s star attraction (we even managed to see some chicks!) different seabirds on website embrace Flying Albatrosses, Wilson’s storm petrels, South Georgia shags, kelp gulls and Antarctic terns.
With our first wet touchdown beneath our belt, we had been particularly excited for the customary sizzling towel and sizzling tea provided as soon as again on board – and to search out out what was subsequent!
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Salisbury Plain
Northern Coast of South Georgia, Bay of Isles
After lunch and a brief nap, we had simply heaved anchor and had been briskly making our method southeast throughout the Bay of Isles.
Just some minutes later, our subsequent touchdown website was distantly seen by means of the fog, waves, and intensifying rainfall.
Sandwiched by the receding Grace and Lucas glaciers, Salisbury Plain represents South Georgia’s largest expanse of degree floor.
The excellent news?
A straightforward stroll.
The not-so-good information?
No shelter from rain.
We had been so mesmerized by the sheer quantity of wildlife, nevertheless, that we barely observed how moist we had been getting.
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So far as the attention might see, seals and penguins – each adults and pups – dotted the panorama throughout the whole 45-minute stroll throughout the plain.
King Penguins
Just a few days earlier, simply earlier than reaching South Georgia Island, our Expedition Chief Ryan jokingly warned that we might be sick of seals and penguins by the point we left.
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Despite the fact that the essence of his assertion – that we might see seals and penguins in every single place we turned in South Georgia – was appropriate, we (as Antarctic neophytes) at all times appeared to search out one thing distinctive every time we stepped among the many wildlife.
Salisbury Plain was no exception.
Over 100,000 pairs of King penguins nest at Salisbury Plain from December to February.
Their story is a singular one, as King penguins are one of many few species thriving.
On the finish of the nineteenth century, over looking had dramatically impacted their international inhabitants to only 350 pairs in 1912.
Fortunately right this moment, they’ve recovered!
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Fortuna Bay
Again on Carcass Island, we had seen just a few bones scattered right here and there.
They had been small, unidentifiable, and normally simply singular. By comparability, Salisbury Plain appeared like a bona fide battleground.
The upper inhabitants of skua birds meant that penguins and seal pups – essential constructing blocks of the skua meals pyramid – at all times wanted to maintain a watchful eye.
Scattered throughout the plain had been skulls, rib cages, and – in a very grotesque sight – a complete penguin skeleton with its toes and hint feathers nonetheless hooked up.
Although these sights had been attempting on the abdomen (good factor lunch was far sufficient within the rearview!), they had been essential reminders that, for all the lovable penguin waddles and spherical seal eyes, the Antarctic was nonetheless a distant, unforgiving place.
Even for many who known as it residence.
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Rain was the phrase throughout our final day on South Georgia Island.
his time, nevertheless, it completely match the event.
Our final South Georgia touchdown came about in Stromness which, like Grytviken, was an deserted whaling city that feebly echoed the territory’s once-prominent business.
As a result of items of the dilapidated buildings will be strewn about throughout harsh situations, South Georgia mandates that each one observers maintain a minimum of 200 meters’ distance from the closest construction.
Strolling amongst this fossilized city would’ve been a neat expertise, however seeing the deserted buildings, hangars, and propellers from a distance created an eerie but visually satisfying tableau.
The true deal with, nevertheless, was nonetheless one grueling hike away.
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Shackleton’s Waterfall
With heavy rain, sucking mud, dashing rivers, and knee-deep snow serving as obstacles, C and I marched inland for a minimum of an hour to see the crown jewel of Stromness.
A easy waterfall.
Although modest by any measure, this wasn’t simply any waterfall.
Keep in mind Sir Ernest Shackleton?
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Sure, the British explorer who, as soon as marooned in Antarctica, took a 23-foot lifeboat north to Elephant Island, 800 miles northeast to South Georgia’s southern coast, and 30 miles throughout the South Georgia Island mountains to civilization?
Nicely, because it seems, “civilization” was Stromness!
Proper across the waterfall, Shackleton, Crean, and Worsley suspected they had been near a whaling city.
It was simply after daybreak, and, if the boys had been appropriate, they might hear a piercing work whistle at 7 within the morning.
When the whistle blew, the rejoicing males rushed previous the waterfall and into Stromness, the place the confused whalers quickly facilitated one of many biggest ever rescue missions.
Despite the fact that it was pouring rain and we had been soaking moist, it was arduous to complain, particularly given what Shackleton and his crew endured on the exact same land!
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Drygalski Fjord
Southeast Coast of South Georgia, Larsen Harbor
That’s proper, fjords aren’t solely in Norway!
Because the uncovered portion of an underwater mountain chain stretching from the Andes to Antarctica, South Georgia is full of towering, snow-capped mountains.
Apparently on days when the ocean is calm, you’ll be able to hear the glacier calving chunks of ice into the water.
Whereas we had been rounding South Georgia’s southern cape en path to Antarctica, our Captain and Expedition Group figured we deserved an intimate have a look at simply how grand these mountains will be.
Situations had been a little too windy to try a Zodiac cruise, so, as a substitute, we had a stunning vessel cruise by means of the whole 7-mile fjord.
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Cruising the Fjord
Gathered on the sprawling Deck 5 aft part – a well-liked and excellent place for taking images on board – we had been capable of snap some nice pictures upon coming into the fjord.
As we exited the fjord, we tried our hand with the wonderful Joby versatile tripod.
Mounting the tripod to the railing of our personal sundeck, we filmed an prolonged video of our vessel exiting Drygalski, which we’ll share as soon as we end modifying it right into a neat time-lapse!
Cruising the Drygalski Fjord was the right coda to our South Georgia Island landings – beautiful, serene, and easily breathtaking throughout.
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Antarctica Vlog
Watch a day at sea on board the Sea Spirit! Don’t overlook to subscribe on Youtube 🙂
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And that’s it! A recap of our thrilling time in South Georgia.
With virtually double the quantity of breeding birds right here than in Antarctica, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands are a particular should add to an expedition cruise!
Visiting the Falkland Islands – Journey Planning Guidelines
We explored each the Falklands and South Georgia on a cruise with Poseidon Expeditions. Expedition cruising is exclusive – landings rely upon wind and wave ranges so each journey is totally different! On our voyage, we had the chance to land at stunning, distant websites on each East and West Falkland and see penguins, seals and hen life up shut.
When you’re excited about reserving an Antarctic cruise, Poseidon is providing our readers as much as a 15% off low cost on choose voyages. E-mail us for more information!
Getting Round | The Falklands is a distant place. Since we explored by way of cruise, our transportation and lodging had been taken care of in type. If exploring by yourself, you’ll be able to guide helicopter service or airfare on the nationwide service FIGAS.
Insurance coverage | You do not wish to threat harm in some of the distant locations of the world! Airlifts to a hospital from the Antarctic can break the bank, so it’s obligatory to buy journey insurance coverage of least $200,000 for expedition cruising. Fortunately, we did not have any incidents however higher to be protected than sorry! Get a quote to your journey right here.
You Would possibly Additionally Take pleasure in:
Antarctica Trip Planning
Poseidon Expedition Evaluation
Antarctica VLOG: A Day at Sea on Board an Expedition Cruise!
Falkland Islands
9 Stunning Locations to Go to within the Distant Falkland Islands
The Finest Issues to See & Do in Port Stanley
5 Penguins You will Uncover within the Falklands!
South Georgia & the South Sandwich Islands
A Go to to South Georgia: Ice, Isolation & Unimaginable Wildlife
Visiting the Deserted City of Grytviken
Comply with me @Sher She Goes on
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